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Road bike tyre pressure

You came here for a chart. We're not going to give you one — not because we're being difficult, but because every honest input to that number is something only you have. Here's the physics instead, and where to put your own numbers in.

A track pump gauge reading pressure beside a road bike wheel.
By Stephen V.Published July 17, 2026How we research

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For about a century, the answer to “what pressure should my road tyres be?” was as hard as you dare. Pump it to the number on the sidewall, because a harder tyre deforms less, and less deformation means less energy lost, and less energy lost means faster. That reasoning is correct. It is also incomplete, and the incomplete part is where all the interesting stuff lives.

Past a certain pressure, pumping your tyres harder makes you slower. Not less comfortable — slower. That’s the finding that rewrote this subject, and it has a name.

Two losses, pulling in opposite directions

There are two separate mechanisms taking energy out of your legs, and they respond to pressure in opposite ways. Almost every bad tyre-pressure take on the internet is someone who only knows about one of them.

Casing losses. As the wheel turns, the tyre flattens where it meets the road and springs back afterwards. Rubber and casing fabric are not perfectly elastic, so that flex-and-rebound cycle turns a little of your effort into heat. This happens thousands of times a minute. More pressure means less deformation means smaller casing losses. This is the mechanism the old advice knew about, and it’s why the old advice said pump it up.

Impedance losses.Real roads are not smooth. Every bump has to be negotiated: either the tyre absorbs it by deforming, or the tyre stays rigid and the bump lifts the bike, you, and everything you’re carrying. Lifting a rider is expensive, and the energy comes out of your legs; it also gets dissipated in your body and the frame rather than the tyre. More pressure means a stiffer tyre means the bike gets thrown around more means larger impedance losses.

Add them together and you don’t get a line, you get a U. Total rolling loss falls as you inflate — casing losses shrinking — and then, past some pressure, it starts rising again as impedance takes over. SILCA, which publishes the most accessible technical writing in this area, states the relationship directly: “Total Rolling Loss = Theoretical Crr Plus Impedance”.

Breakpoint pressure: the bottom of the U

The pressure at the bottom of that curve — where casing losses stop dominating and impedance takes over — is what SILCA calls the breakpoint pressure. Below it, you’re paying in casing flex. Above it, you’re paying to be bounced. At it, you are as fast as that tyre on that road can be.

SILCA publishes the history of this too, and credits it properly rather than claiming it: the initial drum testing was done by Tom Anhalt, Al Morrison and BicycleTireRollingResistance, and SILCA says it replicated the work in summer 2014 on a repaved 900-metre road course using the Chung Method. The key finding it reports from Anhalt’s field testing is that “real world data diverged somewhat dramatically from roller data at higher pressures” — which is exactly what you’d expect if a drum in a lab is smooth and a road is not. The lab was measuring casing losses beautifully and impedance not at all.

Two practical consequences follow, and they’re both published rather than ours:

The curve is not symmetrical, so err low.SILCA’s guidance is that it is “better to set your pressure a few psi below the BreakPoint Pressure than to have it a few PSI above”. The penalty for being under is gentle; the penalty for being over is steep, because impedance climbs fast. If you’re guessing, guess soft.

Rougher surface and narrower tyre both push the breakpoint down. The worse the road, the earlier impedance takes over. This is why the same rider on the same bike has a different correct pressure on fresh tarmac than on chipseal — and why cobbles are a different planet.

Why we won’t print a chart

Here’s where we part company with essentially every other page on this subject. You came here wanting a table: I weigh 75kg, I run 28mm tyres, tell me the number. We’re not going to, and we want to be precise about why, because “it depends” is usually a cop-out and this time it isn’t.

Look at what actually moves the breakpoint. SILCA lists the inputs in its own explanation of its calculator: “What surface are you riding on, what size are your tires, how much does your system weigh, what kind of bike are you riding; all of these play a factor in the optimal tire pressure.” And it adds the part the chart-makers ignore: “not all pavement, gravel, singletrack, or even wooden velodrome is created equal.”

System weight is not your weight.It’s you, plus the bike, plus bottles, plus tools, plus the bag, plus whatever you’re wearing. The chart asks for your body weight because that’s the number you know, not because it’s the number that matters.

Tyre width is not the number on the label.A tyre’s actual inflated width depends on the rim’s internal width, and a 28mm tyre on a modern wide rim measures meaningfully more than 28mm. Volume is what sets the physics, and the sidewall marking is a nominal claim about a different rim.

Surface is the largest single variable and the chart has no column for it. A chart cannot know whether your Tuesday loop is glass-smooth or forty years old. That variable moves the answer more than the difference between two riders twenty kilos apart — and it’s the one the chart silently drops.

Front and rear are not the same.Your weight distribution isn’t 50/50 and neither should your pressures be. The rear carries more, so it wants more. A single number for both wheels is already an approximation before you start.

So: a psi-per-kilo table takes a function of five or six variables, throws away four of them, and prints the result with two-decimal confidence. Everyone in this category ships one anyway, because it’s the thing readers ask for and it makes a great graphic. We can’t make one honestly, and we’d rather send you to a tool that asks you the questions than invent answers on your behalf. SILCA’s professional tyre pressure calculator takes the inputs a chart discards.

Who SILCA is, and what they sell

We’ve cited SILCA four times on this page, so you’re entitled to know their interest — that’s the deal on this site, and we apply it to everyone including sources we like.

SILCA makes a point of the relevant part themselves, in the calculator explainer: “We don’t make wheels or tires so we aren’t limited by our own products in the recommendations we provide.” That’s a real and unusually candid disclosure, and it’s the reason their recommendations can differ from a tyre brand’s. It is also not the whole picture: SILCA sells pumps, among other things, and a company whose business is inflation has a structural interest in tyre pressure being a subject you take seriously and measure precisely. That’s a much milder conflict than a tyre maker publishing tyre research, and we’d cite them again tomorrow — the mechanism they describe is physically checkable and they credit the outside researchers who did the original work rather than absorbing it. But “milder” isn’t “none”, and you should hold it while you read them.

What we can’t tell you

We have not measured a rolling resistance curve. We do not own a drum, a power meter protocol, or a 900-metre repaved test course, and we have not ridden the same loop at fifteen pressures with a stopwatch. Everything above is either a mechanism you can reason about from first principles or a claim SILCA published, quoted as theirs and linked so you can read the original.

The number you want — your psi, for your weight, on your road — depends on inputs only you have. That is not us being evasive. It is the actual finding, and every chart that pretends otherwise is deleting variables to make a table fit on a page.

What actually moves your correct pressure

This is the table we can build honestly: not what your pressure is, but which way each variable pushes it, and whether the typical psi-per-kilo chart even asks you about it. Direction is physics. The magnitude is yours.

VariableWhich way it pushes pressureWhyDoes a psi chart ask?
System weight (you + bike + everything)UpMore load needs more pressure to carry it on the same volume of airIt asks your body weight — which isn't the same number
Tyre volume (actual inflated width)DownMore air volume carries the same load at lower pressureIt asks the sidewall marking, not the measured width
Road roughnessDownRough surfaces bring the impedance breakpoint down, and fastAlmost never
Rim internal widthDownA wider rim inflates the same tyre to a larger real volumeNo
Front vs rear wheelRear higherYour weight distribution isn't 50/50, so the loads aren't eitherNo — it prints one number
Tubeless vs tubesDown (tubeless)No inner tube means no tube-flex loss and no pinch-flat floor to respectRarely
Wet roadDownA larger contact patch is grip you'd like to haveNo
Casing suppleness (TPI, construction)VariesA supple casing absorbs bumps differently from a stiff oneNo

A typical chart asks about one and a half of these eight rows — your body weight, and the number printed on your tyre — and then presents the output as a specific psi. That is not a chart. It is a function with three-quarters of its arguments deleted, rendered in a nice font. This table is deliberately directional: we can tell you honestly which way each lever moves, and we cannot tell you how far.

What actually decides this purchase

Stop using the sidewall number. The maximum printed on your tyre is a safety limit — the pressure at which the manufacturer stops being responsible for what happens. It is not a recommendation, it has never been a recommendation, and for most riders on modern wide tyres it is far above the breakpoint. Riding at the sidewall maximum is riding on the steep, expensive side of the U.

Err low, because the curve is asymmetric.This is SILCA’s published guidance and it’s the most actionable thing on this page: a few psi under the breakpoint costs you very little, and a few psi over costs you a lot. Almost everyone we’d guess is running high. If you take one number away from here, take the direction: down.

Buy a gauge you trust before you buy anything else.None of this matters if you can’t measure it. Cheap floor-pump gauges are frequently well out, and a pressure debate conducted with an inaccurate gauge is theology. A tyre also loses pressure just sitting there — latex tubes and tubeless setups noticeably faster than butyl — so the pressure you set on Saturday is not the pressure you have on Wednesday.

Test on one road, one variable at a time.You do not need a lab. Pick a loop you know, drop 5 psi, ride it, repeat. What you are feeling for is not comfort — it’s the point where the bike stops skittering over bad surface and starts tracking through it. Your own testing on your own road beats any chart, including one we could have made up.

Wider tyres are the actual upgrade.Everything on this page gets easier with more air volume: the breakpoint drops into a comfortable range, comfort and speed stop fighting each other, and the penalty for guessing wrong shrinks. If your frame will take a wider tyre, that is a bigger win than optimising the pressure of a narrow one — and it’s the reason brake clearance has quietly become the important spec, which we get into in rim brakes vs disc brakes.

Common questions

What pressure should I run if I weigh 75kg on 28mm tyres?

We genuinely can’t tell you, and any page that answers that question from those two facts alone is making it up. Missing from your question: what the bike and your kit weigh, what your rims’ internal width is (which changes what a “28mm” tyre actually measures), how rough your roads are, whether you’re tubeless, and how the load splits front to rear. Those aren’t pedantic — surface roughness alone moves the answer more than a twenty-kilo difference in rider weight. SILCA’s calculator asks you those things. We’d rather point you at it than print a number we invented.

Does lower tyre pressure really make you faster?

Up to a point, on a real road, yes — and this is the counterintuitive bit that took published field testing to establish. Total rolling loss is casing losses plus impedance losses. Inflating harder shrinks the first and grows the second, so the curve has a bottom. Past that breakpoint, more pressure is slower. The reason the old “harder is faster” advice survived so long is that it was validated on smooth lab drums, where impedance barely exists — SILCA reports that real-world data “diverged somewhat dramatically from roller data at higher pressures”.

Should my front and rear tyre pressures be the same?

No, and it’s one of the clearest things on this page. Your weight isn’t split evenly between the wheels — the rear carries appreciably more — so the loads differ and the correct pressures differ with them. Running the rear a bit higher than the front follows directly from that. How much is a question about your position and your bike, which we can’t see, and a calculator that asks for a front/rear split will do better by you than we can.

Why does my tyre say 120 psi max if I shouldn't run 120 psi?

Because that number is a limit, not advice. It marks where the manufacturer stops guaranteeing the tyre and rim will behave — a legal and safety boundary. It says nothing about where you are fastest or most comfortable, and on modern wide tyres and rims those are usually a long way apart. Treat the sidewall as a ceiling you should not approach, not a target to hit.

How often should I check my tyre pressure?

Every ride, or close to it, and the reason is simply that tyres leak — air migrates through the rubber whatever you do. The rate depends on your setup: butyl tubes hold pressure longest, latex tubes and tubeless lose it noticeably faster. We’re not going to give you a psi-per-day figure because it depends on the tube, the tyre, the temperature and the pressure itself. Check it, don’t model it. And check it with a gauge you have some reason to trust.

Sources

We haven’t ridden or tested any of the products on this page, and we don’t pretend otherwise. Read how we research — or tell us we’re wrong and we’ll log the correction.